Saturday, February 27, 2021

Thursday, February 25, 2021

Wednesday, February 24, 2021

Saturday, February 20, 2021

Woodbanks! - When There’s No Heat: ‘You Need Wood, You Get Wood’ - The New York Times

We're small, energetic and an average age of 75!



When There’s No Heat: ‘You Need Wood, You Get Wood’ - The New York Times

The H.O.M.E. wood bank was designed for such emergencies. It is small, providing “bridge assistance,” often while people wait for state services. Ms. Hair said she expected increased need this winter. “There are people who wouldn’t qualify for state heating assistance, but desperately need some help this year because of Covid,” she said, right before dashing inside to put on warmer socks. “We don’t want more people to come into homelessness.”

Ms. Hair said she expected climate change to increase need as well. Warming temperatures — the state’s average annual temperature has risen 3.2 degrees Fahrenheit since the late 1800s, according to a 2020 report by the University of Maine — have led to more winters without an insulating blanket of snow. “In an open winter, pipes tend to freeze more,” said Ms. Hair, noting that people who live in trailers are particularly vulnerable to such damage.

Severe weather events, like the snowstorms that have hit Texas, can trigger major power failures, which have been on rise, according to a report by Climate Central. As part of their climate resiliency plans, at least a few Northeastern towns have recommended creating wood banks for when the grid fails.


The Boothbay Woodchucks woodbank





Thursday, February 18, 2021

K2: Nirmal Purja Speaks About Ropes, O2, and the Summit Plan » Explorersweb

K2: Nirmal Purja Speaks About Ropes, O2, and the Summit Plan » Explorersweb

In an interview on Bulgarian national television yesterday, Nirmal Purja confirmed that the Nepali team fixed all the upper sections of K2 as they headed for the summit.

“On the previous rotation we fixed from Camp 2, and on the summit day we fixed everything to the summit, and that’s purely because I knew we would be descending in the night,” said Purja. He added that they had previously planned to fix the whole route for safety reasons.

Purja on the summit of K2.

Purja’s comments echo Mingma G’s, who mentioned that descent was rather straightforward, thanks to the fixed ropes.

This contradicts Pakistani climbing legend Nazir Sabir’s recent speculations. Last week, Sabir accused the Nepali climbers of retrieving the ropes as they returned from the summit, implying that this could have affected the safety of John Snorri, Ali Sadpara, and Juan Pablo Mohr, who went missing during their own summit push on February 5.

Purja declined to comment about what happened at Camp 3, when the Seven Summit Treks climbers found so few tents for so many people, saying that he was not there at the time. But he did suggest how to prevent such events from happening in the future: “[Plan] everything meticulously, check everything in advance, and have contingency plans,” he said.

Saturday, February 13, 2021

Teamwork not solo - Nepali Climbers Conquer K2

I have often said that my favorite genre of entertainment reading is "men in bad weather".  It was the Museum of Natural History's famous exhibition of the famous Shackleton expedition to Antarctica which ended with the Endurance crushed in the ice and months spent on an ice floe before a harrowing escape to the granite Elephant Island - the last possible landing spot.  They were rescued by Ernest Shackleton's 500 mile small boat journey to South Georgia Island, a Norwegian whaling station.  He returned to Elephant Island, failed, came back in a second ship and plucked every man from the rocks.  Then he went to New Zealand, chartered a ship and retrieved the supply ship waiting for him on the far side of the continent.

That obsession was followed by Southern Ocean storms, Arctic expeditions, explorers and athletes racing sailboats across oceans.  But mountain climbing has rarely reached me - except for Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air - a first person chronicle of a high fatality season on Everest.

Recently I have followed Colin O'Brady on Instagram with a feeling of unease about his self promotion.  I am not alone.  Krakauer is among his critics in a National Geographic article.

O'Brady pitched his K2 winter attempt - cooperating with Seven Summits Treks @sevensummittreks - as an upcoming individual triumph.  But instead he wisely retreated from the highest base camp.  As did two others - O'Brady's friend Jon Kedrowski and Bulgarian Atanas Skatov, who fell to his death.  Similarly Boston critical care physician Alex Goldfarb fell on another mountain in the range.

The honors for first to summit fell to the Nepali Sherpa team of ten who summitted together Teamwork is the key to their success.  But even their triumph was not theirs alone.  Icelander John Snorri and Pakistani Ali Sadpara had set ropes the season before.  Tragically Snorri, Sadpara, and Chilean Juan Pablo Prieto tried to follow in the footsteps of the Nepali team...and were lost on the mountain.

Where does this leave me?  Valuing teamwork above all, while asking whether this sort of thing should be undertaken at all.

Below are two videos that will give you the chance to decide where you stand on the nature of the beauty and the effort.  The first introduces you to the Nepali team which accomplished the first winter climb of K2.  The second is a 46 minute film about an Eddie Bauer sponsored summer K2 expedition.


Tuesday, February 9, 2021

A Glimpse of a Bygone Life on the Shetland Islands, Plucked From the Trash - The New York Times





A Glimpse of a Bygone Life on the Shetland Islands, Plucked From the Trash - The New York Times

LONDON — After working for years at a recycling center in the Shetland Islands, at the northernmost reaches of the British Isles, Paul Moar is used to helping the public get rid of unwanted items.

But when an older man walked into the recycling center in Lerwick, the capital of the archipelago in the North Atlantic, carrying two large bags heaving with old photograph slides, he quickly realized that this intended trash might be worth keeping.

In the bags, he found a wealth of old pictures of the Shetland Islands taken in the 1960s and ’70s — old farmers shearing sheep by hand, views of dirt roads winding between small stone houses, and fishers rowing small dinghies ashore.

Hopes Fade For 3 Missing Climbers On K2, Last Seen 3 Days Ago - Rock and Ice


The picture of strength and health - each of the three men lost on K2.  Those who climb these mountains are that.  If you click through for their photos you'll see what I mean.
Why one would try to climb a rock like this in brutally cold weather I do not know.  I can only guess that if you have that kind of strength there must be great joy in experiencing it, in building it, exulting in the glory of the vistas.  But the cold...wind...Maybe it's the solidarity too.
John Snorri site
Hopes Fade For 3 Missing Climbers On K2, Last Seen 3 Days Ago - Rock and Ice

As of 3:30 am, Monday, February 8, 2021,(Pakistan Standard Time), John Snorri, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, and Juan Pablo (JP) Mohr Prieto remain missing, with no trace of them found after multiple helicopter searches.

We are learning more about what happened at the Bottleneck directly from Ali’s son, Sajid. Of note, he said he and his father were climbing without supplemental oxygen but had a bottle in their pack for emergencies. Also, when he left the three missing climbers, they had no radio or satellite phone. He believes they summited and had an accident on the descent in the Bottleneck, but he cannot be sure.

There has been no official communication from Snorri or Ali or JP’s home teams to the public.

Saturday, February 6, 2021

After Sherpas triumph, three Climbers lost on K2






Missing on the mountain



February 6, 2021

With options for travel few, and Everest closed, alpinist adventurers settled on the idea of a winter assault on K2 which had never been climbed. Some signed on with Seven Summits Trekking., American Colin O'Brady pitched his own effort as a first - like his Antarctica trek and his rowing across the Drake Passage team.  [Since his "first" solo crossing of Antarctica I've been following Colin O'Brady on IG - with a bit of skepticism prompted by his shameless self-promotion.  It appears that there are a lot of critics.  See The problem with Colin O’Brady National Geographic.]
But the glory was taken by a team of ten Sherpas who accomplished the first successful winter climb to the summit of Pakistan's K2 - the world's second highest mountain.

Fortunately he has avoided death on K2. When he got to the Base Camp the ten Sherpa Nepali team had already summited, so no record there.  O'Brady, like his climbing partner,  Jon Kedrowski @drjonkedski headed to the high Camp 3 (24K feet).  But after four hours Kedroski decided it was not to be.  Kedrowski retreated safely.  O'Brady climbed to Camp 3 - 24,000 feet.  Then he too decided not to try to summit.  Bulgarian Atanas Skatov @atanasskatovathlete descended an hour earlier but fell to his death, his body recoverd by a Pakistani helicopter.  
Alas three other climbers unwisely took the risk.  Thirty hours after leaving Camp 3 for the summit their GPS trackers had died, and likely the climbers John Snorri (Iceland), Ali Sadpara (Pakistan), and Juan Pablo “JP” Mohr Prieto (Chile). It now appears that there is no real hope.  A Pakistani helicopter was able to get to only 7,000 meters, 3,000 below where the last GPS signal was received.  Ali Sadpara's son Sajid - who had turned back when his oxygen regulator failed - has now retreated to camp 1, holding out no real hope for his father and fellow climbers.  A rescue mission is underway.




 

Friday, February 5, 2021

Harvard Medicine Prof. Alex Goldfarb Found Dead on Pastori Peak, Pakistan



Alex Goldfarb Found Dead on Pastori Peak
Dr. Alex Goldfarb - attempting the first winter climb of Pastori Peak (near K2) - has been found dead, having fallen off the mountain.  Two of his rescuers - who found but did not retrieve the body - are themselves now missing on K2 which they attempted to summit.

Helicopters departed Skardu today and picked up John Snorri and Sajid Sadpara, who had quickly volunteered to help, from K2 Base Camp. High winds aborted an initial flight, but on a subsequent pass after the winds had calmed, the pilots spotted rags of a tent. On a third and final flight, they saw Goldfarb’s body. Since his body was visible, he likely fell off the mountain rather than into a crevasse, as had been feared.

In these times where every action first appears on social media, Snorri quietly volunteered for the rescue, and according to journalists close to Szlanko, Snorri has now made room for the surviving climber, Zoltan Szlanko, in his own tent at K2 Base Camp.