Things have changed in the neighborhood. It's not Broookleen, but it's gotten better.
by Ligaya Mishan
Hungry City: Rusty Mackerel in Hudson Heights - NYTimes.com:
"The waitress shrieked. A tiny potato had toppled to the side of the carefully stacked bowl she was about to set onto the table.“Wait,” she whispered, whisking it away. Minutes passed. She returned, bowl in hand, with a sigh. “They won’t stay put,” she said.
They looked fine, lopsided not-quite-orbs of baby potatoes under a ghost crust of salt. They tasted better, having been cooked in salt water and then thrust into the oven, sealing their creaminess inside. A few dabs of smoked paprika aioli had become mussed in the tumbling, but this was to the good — sweet streaks to counter the salt."
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