Thursday, September 3, 2020

The last year? For 100 years the Quinn Family has delivered the mail to Penobscot Bay islands


“I’m in love with that boat,” Ms. Quinn said, sighing.



The Eagle Island Light is a landmark on the East Penobscot Bay.  Author Ben Howe's family maintains it, the sort of act of love for a place that makes Maine Maine.  Here he tells the story of the Quinns who have lived on the high mile square island a mile west of Little Deer Isle, one of a group of islands that make the Bay a mystical archipelago.  I'll let him Ben tell the story.  Be sure to click through to the whole piece in the Times.  - GWC

  The last year? For 100 years the Quinn Family has delivered the mail to Penobscot Bay islands

 By 

HANCOCK COUNTY, MAINE — In blinding fog, an aging boat called the TM 2 zigzagged through the Cricket Hole, a shallow reef in Maine’s Penobscot Bay. The ocean’s calm surface concealed a maze of unseen ledges, around which the TM 2’s captain, Karl Osterby, cut a tight course. The boat soon approached an aluminum dock on Great Spruce Head Island, where a man in shorts and rubber boots awaited.

“Another busy day?” the man said, his sarcasm as evident — this being Maine — as the invisible bottom of the Cricket Hole. Mr. Osterby said nothing and held out an all but empty canvas bag of U.S. mail with one hand, as the TM 2 glided past the dock without stopping. There was a single passenger aboard (me). In the state that calls itself Vacationland, high season had just begun.

Normally, by July, the mail boat that serves six of the small and rugged islands of northern Penobscot Bay — Barred, Butter, Eagle, Bear, Scrag and Great Spruce Head — would be weighed down with letters and packages, plus a dozen or so passengers at $25 per ride. Some riders would have been sightseers scanning the reef-laden harbors for porpoises and harbor seals, and some would have been seasonal residents of the islands. Many in the latter group would be stranded without the mail boat — a lifeline delivering essentials like prescriptions, groceries and, this year, ballots.

ImageKarl Osterby, 63, a boat captain, caretaker of the Quinn family property, and sole year-round resident of Eagle Island, Maine, delivers the day's mail by boat to the several islands in Penobscot Bay.
Credit...Tristan Spinski for The New York Times

Operating the route has been the responsibility of one family since 1905 — and this year is likely to be the last because of the hardships imposed by Covid-19.

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Tuesday, September 1, 2020

Life Lessons from a 97-Year-Old Lobsterman | Outside Online

John Olson on his boat

For several years we rented a big old farm house on Maple Juice Cove, on the St. George River, in Cushing, Maine.  We hosted the annual family reunion there.  Just across the cove is the Olson House, a museum now, where Andrew Wyeth did his most famous work - a portrait of Christina Olson, the crippled daughter of a Swedish captain who married a local girl. The Olson family story is oft told, of course.

A couple hundred yards down the road is Sam Olson's Seafood a lobster buyer's wharf.  There Sam's father John - Christina's brother - fished his entire life. John, who told his story in a plain narrative to his daughter Virginia, died last year.  But before he did he told his story again to a writer from Outside Magazine.



We knew Sam - the kids jumped onto his dock to watch as the yardman put the "bugs" into a floating crate for us.  I met Sam a few times.  A small man with huge hands that had been hauling lobster traps for 70 years by then.  I liked his old wooden boat My Girl, classic high bow, low freeboard from the days before powered trap haulers.  One day, sorry to say, he forgot to put in the scupper plugs and the boat went to the bottom, frying the electricals in the salt water.  Easier to buy another boat than re-power the sunken one.

So John lies in the local graveyard near the Olson House, just a few yards from Andrew who made this typical Maine family famous.  - GWC



Life Lessons from a 97-Year-Old Lobsterman | Outside Online

by Suzanne Rico



If the definition of a true outdoorsman is spending more of your life braving the elements than seeking shelter from them, lobsterman John Olson may be the finest example alive.
On Halloween morning last year—the wind six knots, the temperature 38 degrees—Olson stands at the helm of a high-bowed wooden boat that shoulders aside the sea. Wearing rubber boots, brown work pants, and a navy jacket with enough dirt on it for him not to worry about keeping it clean, John has the straight-backed bearing of the World War II sailor he once was.
“My mother wanted me to work in an office,” he says, nudging the boat close to an orange and black buoy bobbing off Griffin Island in midcoast Maine. “But that wasn’t for me.” He snags the buoy with a duct-taped gaff, and the hydraulic hauler whines as it lifts a wire trap with a tangle of lobsters inside.
“How do you know where to find them?” I ask.
“It’s all in here,” John says, pointing a yellow-gloved hand to his head, which, after 97 years, is still covered by a respectable amount of gray hair. “I been over this bottom so many times, it’s imprinted.”

John Olson caught his first crustaceans nine decades ago. Born in 1922, he spent his childhood summers roaming Hathorne Point on Maine’s Muscongus Bay with his buddy Clyde. The boys spent their nights camping out and their days fishing, swimming, or working on Clyde’s father’s lobster boat.
“I couldn’t have been much more than six,” John says of his early start in the lobstering business. He digs through a box in the kitchen of the weathered saltbox house he built in 1954, his cat, Mia, rubbing against his legs, until he finds a faded photograph. In it, a young John, jug-eared and smiling, stands by a wheelbarrow full of lobsters, clutching one in each hand. “I started out paddling with oars. Then motors came along, and my father bought an engine for me—a one-cylinder—and we put it in a dory.”
John shows me the lobster fisherman’s license he received at age 16. Dated July 1, 1938, the creased and torn document is a remnant from the Depression, when lobsters sold for 15 cents a pound. After high school, he bought a brand-new boat, paying for it the Maine way: “I went into the woods and cut 100 cords of pulpwood with a bucksaw and ax,” John remembers. “There weren’t no chainsaws.”

Monday, August 31, 2020

Larry Pardey, Mariner Who Sailed the World Engineless, Dies at 80 - The New York Times

Mr. Pardey in 1982 building his 29-foot boat, Taleisin, an engineless wooden yacht.

Larry Pardey, Mariner Who Sailed the World Engineless, Dies at 80 - The New York Times

by Richard Sandomir

On a perilous westerly course bound for Cape Horn near the southern tip of South America in 2002, Larry and Lin Pardey made their approach into the hazardous currents of the Strait of Le Maire aboard Taleisin, their 29-foot, engineless wooden yacht.
Mr. Pardey with his wife, Lin, sailing  on the Mediterranean in 1975 aboard their 24-foot boat, Seraffyn. The trip, their first circumnavigation, lasted 11 years.
Well after midnight, with Ms. Pardey on watch and Mr. Pardey asleep below, she lost sight of navigation lights but realized, suddenly, that several large rocks were in front of her, not the open water that she had expected.

“I threw the helm and tacked to turn and reached out to sea on a reciprocal course,” she said in an email. “At the same time, I yelled for Larry to get up on deck. He ended up being thrown from the bunk on the cabin sole, then scrambled quickly into the cockpit.”

They were, for a short time, lost. Mr. Pardey took the helm as his wife studied their charts to determine the safest course back to open water. They eventually passed through the strait and headed to Cape Horn.


***

By then, the Pardeys were more than 30 years into an adventurous life at sea, twice circumnavigating on boats that Mr. Pardey had built. Their voyages brought them renown among cruisers: sailors who take their time on long trips, often to foreign parts.
“Without exaggeration, Larry is one of the greatest small boat sailors of any era,” Herb McCormick, executive editor of Cruising World magazine, said in an interview. “The degree of difficulty — of sailing boats without an engine for 200,000 miles — is an amazing thing.”
Mr. McCormick, who wrote the book “As Long as It’s Fun: The Epic Voyages and Extraordinary Times of Lin and Larry Pardey” (2014), added: “Larry’s little motto was, ‘If it was easy, everybody would do it.’ He almost went out of his way to make it harder: building the boats, engineless, and sailing upwind around Cape Horn.”
***
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Monday, August 17, 2020

Marvin Creamer, a Mariner Who Sailed Like the Ancients, Dies at 104 - The New York Times

Marvin Creamer, a Mariner Who Sailed Like the Ancients, Dies at 104 - The New York Times

Had Marvin Creamer not been a geographer, he very likely would not have lived to be 104.

Professor Creamer, who died at that age on Wednesday, taught geography for many years at Glassboro State College, now Rowan University, in Glassboro, N.J.

His expertise helped him become a history-making mariner, the first recorded person to sail round the world without navigational instruments. His 30,000-mile odyssey, in a 36-foot cutter with a small crew, made headlines worldwide on its completion in 1984.

“I was considered to be crazy or stupid or just out of it,” Professor Creamer said in a 2015 interview with Rowan University. “When I took off there were two people who believed I would come back.”

One was his wife Blanche. The other, despite the welter of naysayers, was Professor Creamer himself.

Two classics

Two sailboats are moored at Martin Point, Friendship, Maine.  That is the mouth of Hatchet Cove, my Maine homeport.  I've seen the longer of them - the ketch before, but the smaller gaff rigged boat is new to me.  And it looks brand new.  The ketch is a classic  L. Francis Herreshoff design - a Rozinante, which the master described as a "canoe yawl" even though it's technically a ketch.  I of course am partial to L. Francis because my boat - a Buzzards Bay 14 - was designed by him.  

Today I headed out for an evening spin, noticed that the two sailboats (which I understand to be owned by the Pickering family) were not on their moorings.  So as I headed south on the Muscongus Bay I kept an eye out for their boats.  When I saw the tell tale shape of a gaff rig I headed that way.  I arrived as the two boats converged.  And got these next few shots.  - GWC

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Saturday, August 15, 2020

‘The Fish Rots From the Head’: How a Salmon Crisis Stoked Russian Protests - The New York Times



‘The Fish Rots From the Head’: How a Salmon Crisis Stoked Russian Protests - The New York Times



  • OZERPAKH, Russia — A row of stakes hundreds of feet long pokes out of the endless estuary of the Amur River on Russia’s Pacific coast, resembling the naked spine of a giant fish.

    It is a piece of commercial fishing infrastructure reminding the people who still live here that nature’s wealth — in this case, millions of chum and pink salmon — belongs to the well-connected few.

    “It’s as though they must exterminate these riches, mercilessly,” says Galina Sladkovskaya, 65, waiting in vain for a fish to bite at a levee about 20 miles upstream. “They only need money and nothing else. They don’t have a human soul.”

Wednesday, August 12, 2020

Mysore masala dosa - my bond with Kamala Harris

Kamala Harris's mother was a groundbreaking Indian-American cancer researcher who made important contributions to the fight against breast cancer.

Less noted is that Kamala knows how to cook the south Indian favorite, my regular lunch when working in Bombay as a Peace Corps Volunteer fifty years ago: the Mysore Masala Dosa, native dish of Tamilnadu (fka Madras).


Sunday, August 9, 2020

Goat Island Skiff — Chase Small Craft

An old classic hand drawing I did way back when I started with the Goat Island Skiff!   Mizzen Brackets  are now available to convert your Goat to a Yawl.

Goat Island Skiff

FAST | LIGHTWEIGHT | EASY-TO-BUILD

SPECIFICATIONS
LOA   15' 6"

LWL   14' 9"

Beam   5'

Draft (board up/down)   4"/36"

Depth amidships   20" 

Sail Area 105 (lug) 14 sf (sprit)
Where does one start about the Goat Island Skiff? I became attracted to the GIS because of its simplicity and focus on performance. I wanted to know more about designing and building lightweight craft and I wanted something fairly quick to build. I wanted to go sailing! I prototyped the GIS kit in 2010 and still sail and row my Goat today. There is a wide GIS community on the web and enough resources about the boat to help anyone complete their project. My GIS focus has been to develop the kit and test a new yawl rig. I just about never sail without the mizzen. This arrangement makes her into a small sail-&-oar boat, more friendly for singlehanding, maneuvering and reefing underway, and switching from sailing to rowing mode, and back again. Mostly I sail, but the skiff rows okay given her light weight. The interior offers a lot of space for a small boat because of the boxy skiff construction. Freeboard is ample on the boat and helps to create some security. That said, the GIS will present the new sailor a good learning curve and will continue to delight as your experience grows. This has been my experience. The GIS kit has a few features that are only available in a kit, they include: 
  • a CNC pre-cut scarf.
  • tabbing and slotting of bulkheads and side panels making the boat easier to build and more accurate
  • a sheerline that is slightly modified to be more eye-sweet
  • time saving of about 20-25% over building from scratch
The kit builds without any need for a strongback by attaching the side panels at the bow, engaging side panels and bulkheads with the tabs and slots, and fastening to the transom. The bottom goes on like a lid after the chine logs. The interior accepts the precut tank tops and seats included in the kit. There is no specific kit for the yawl, rather it is a modification that the builder makes to take the mizzen mast and to move the main mast position aft. Specific instructions and a drawing is included with the kit. Plans come straight from the designer, Michael Storer.
Goat Island Skiff — Chase Small Craft